| ANATOMY OF A HORSE? |
| THE "ARIZONA TRAIL" |
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Hoof care and shoeing
The hooves of a horse or pony are cleaned by being picked out with a hoof pick to remove any stones, mud
and dirt and to check that the shoes (if worn) are in good condition. Keeping feet clean and dry wherever
possible helps prevent both lameness as well as hoof diseases such as thrush (a hoof fungus). The feet should
be cleaned every time the horse is ridden, and if the horse is not ridden, it is still best practice to check and
clean feet frequently. Daily cleaning is recommended in many management books, but in practical terms, a
weekly hoof check of healthy horses at rest is often sufficient during good weather.
Use of hoof oils, dressings, or other topical treatments varies by region, climate, and the needs of the individual
horse. Many horses have healthy feet their entire lives without need for any type of hoof dressing. While some
horses may have circumstances where a topical hoof treatment is of benefit, improper use of dressings can also
create hoof problems, or make a situation worse instead of better. Thus, there is no universal set of guidelines
suitable for all horses in all parts of the world. Farriers and veterinarians in a horse owner's local area can
provide advice on the use and misuse of topical hoof dressings, offering suggestions tailored for the needs of
the individual horse.
Horses and ponies require routine hoof care by a professional farrier every 6 to 8 weeks, depending on the
animal, the work it performs and, in some areas, weather conditions. Hooves usually grow faster in the spring
and fall than in summer or winter. They also appear to grow faster in warm, moist weather than in cold or dry
weather. In damp climates, the hooves tend to spread out more and wear down less than in dry climates, though
more lush, growing forage may also be a factor. Thus, a horse kept in a climate such as that of Ireland may
need to have its feet trimmed more frequently than a horse kept in a drier climate such as Arizona, in the
southwestern United States.
All domesticated horses need regular hoof trims, regardless of use. Horses in the wild do not need hoof trims
because they travel as much as 50 miles (80 km) a day in dry or semi-arid grassland in search of forage, a
process that wears their feet naturally. Domestic horses in light use are not subjected to such severe living
conditions and hence their feet grow faster than they can be worn down. Without regular trimming, their feet can
get too long, eventually splitting, chipping and cracking, which can lead to lameness.
On the other hand, horses subjected to hard work may need horseshoes for additional protection. Some
advocates of the barefoot horse movement maintain that proper management may reduce or eliminate the need
for shoes, but certain activities, such as horse racing and police horse work, create unnatural levels of stress
and will wear down hooves faster than they would in nature. Thus, some types of working horses almost always
require some form of hoof protection.
The cost of farrier work varies widely, depending on the part of the world, the type of horse to be trimmed or
shod, and any special issues with the horse's foot that may require more complex care. The cost of a trim is
roughly half to one-third that of the cost of a set of shoes, and professional farriers are typically paid at a level
commeasurate with other skilled labourers in an area, such as plumbers or electricians, though farriers charge
by the horse rather than by the hour.
In the USA, there are no legal restrictions on who may do farrier work. However, trained and qualified farriers
usually belong to professional organizations such as: the AFA (American Farrier's Association), which certifies
farriers as Intern, Journeyman, and Certified Farrier.
The hooves of a horse or pony are cleaned by being picked out with a hoof pick to remove any stones, mud
and dirt and to check that the shoes (if worn) are in good condition. Keeping feet clean and dry wherever
possible helps prevent both lameness as well as hoof diseases such as thrush (a hoof fungus). The feet should
be cleaned every time the horse is ridden, and if the horse is not ridden, it is still best practice to check and
clean feet frequently. Daily cleaning is recommended in many management books, but in practical terms, a
weekly hoof check of healthy horses at rest is often sufficient during good weather.
Use of hoof oils, dressings, or other topical treatments varies by region, climate, and the needs of the individual
horse. Many horses have healthy feet their entire lives without need for any type of hoof dressing. While some
horses may have circumstances where a topical hoof treatment is of benefit, improper use of dressings can also
create hoof problems, or make a situation worse instead of better. Thus, there is no universal set of guidelines
suitable for all horses in all parts of the world. Farriers and veterinarians in a horse owner's local area can
provide advice on the use and misuse of topical hoof dressings, offering suggestions tailored for the needs of
the individual horse.
Horses and ponies require routine hoof care by a professional farrier every 6 to 8 weeks, depending on the
animal, the work it performs and, in some areas, weather conditions. Hooves usually grow faster in the spring
and fall than in summer or winter. They also appear to grow faster in warm, moist weather than in cold or dry
weather. In damp climates, the hooves tend to spread out more and wear down less than in dry climates, though
more lush, growing forage may also be a factor. Thus, a horse kept in a climate such as that of Ireland may
need to have its feet trimmed more frequently than a horse kept in a drier climate such as Arizona, in the
southwestern United States.
All domesticated horses need regular hoof trims, regardless of use. Horses in the wild do not need hoof trims
because they travel as much as 50 miles (80 km) a day in dry or semi-arid grassland in search of forage, a
process that wears their feet naturally. Domestic horses in light use are not subjected to such severe living
conditions and hence their feet grow faster than they can be worn down. Without regular trimming, their feet can
get too long, eventually splitting, chipping and cracking, which can lead to lameness.
On the other hand, horses subjected to hard work may need horseshoes for additional protection. Some
advocates of the barefoot horse movement maintain that proper management may reduce or eliminate the need
for shoes, but certain activities, such as horse racing and police horse work, create unnatural levels of stress
and will wear down hooves faster than they would in nature. Thus, some types of working horses almost always
require some form of hoof protection.
The cost of farrier work varies widely, depending on the part of the world, the type of horse to be trimmed or
shod, and any special issues with the horse's foot that may require more complex care. The cost of a trim is
roughly half to one-third that of the cost of a set of shoes, and professional farriers are typically paid at a level
commeasurate with other skilled labourers in an area, such as plumbers or electricians, though farriers charge
by the horse rather than by the hour.
In the USA, there are no legal restrictions on who may do farrier work. However, trained and qualified farriers
usually belong to professional organizations such as: the AFA (American Farrier's Association), which certifies
farriers as Intern, Journeyman, and Certified Farrier.
|
Dental care
A horse's teeth grow continuously throughout its life and can develop uneven wear patterns. Most common are
sharp edges on the sides of the molars which may cause problems when eating or being ridden. For this
reason a horse or pony needs to have its teeth checked by a veterinarian or qualified equine dentist at least
once a year. If there are problems, any points, unevenness or rough areas can be ground down with a rasp
until they are smooth. This process is known as "floating".
Basic floating can be accomplished by the practitioner pulling the end of horse's tongue out the side of the
mouth, having an assistant hold the tongue while the teeth are rasped. The horse will not bite its own tongue,
and will often tolerate the floating process if held closely and kept in a confined area where it cannot move.
When complex dental work is required or if a horse strenuously objects to the procedure, sedation is used.
Types of teeth
At five years of age a horse has between 36 and 44 teeth. All horses have....
Twelve premolars and twelve molars commonly known as cheek teeth or jaw teeth.
Twelve incisors, or front teeth.
Additionally, a horse may have:
Between 4 and 5 canine teeth (tushes, tusks) between the molars and incisors. Generally all male horses have
four canines. However, few female horses (less than 28%) have canines, and those that do usually have only
one or two, which many times are only partially erupted.
Between zero to four wolf teeth, which are vestigial premolars and not canines as the name may suggest. About
13-32% of all horses also are born with wolf teeth, with most of those having only one or two. They are equally
common in male and female horses and much more likely to be on the upper jaw. If present these can cause
problems in the bitting of the horse as they can interfere with the horse's bit contact, and may also make it
difficult to rasp the second premolar. Therefore, wolf teeth are commonly removed.
A horse's teeth grow continuously throughout its life and can develop uneven wear patterns. Most common are
sharp edges on the sides of the molars which may cause problems when eating or being ridden. For this
reason a horse or pony needs to have its teeth checked by a veterinarian or qualified equine dentist at least
once a year. If there are problems, any points, unevenness or rough areas can be ground down with a rasp
until they are smooth. This process is known as "floating".
Basic floating can be accomplished by the practitioner pulling the end of horse's tongue out the side of the
mouth, having an assistant hold the tongue while the teeth are rasped. The horse will not bite its own tongue,
and will often tolerate the floating process if held closely and kept in a confined area where it cannot move.
When complex dental work is required or if a horse strenuously objects to the procedure, sedation is used.
Types of teeth
At five years of age a horse has between 36 and 44 teeth. All horses have....
Twelve premolars and twelve molars commonly known as cheek teeth or jaw teeth.
Twelve incisors, or front teeth.
Additionally, a horse may have:
Between 4 and 5 canine teeth (tushes, tusks) between the molars and incisors. Generally all male horses have
four canines. However, few female horses (less than 28%) have canines, and those that do usually have only
one or two, which many times are only partially erupted.
Between zero to four wolf teeth, which are vestigial premolars and not canines as the name may suggest. About
13-32% of all horses also are born with wolf teeth, with most of those having only one or two. They are equally
common in male and female horses and much more likely to be on the upper jaw. If present these can cause
problems in the bitting of the horse as they can interfere with the horse's bit contact, and may also make it
difficult to rasp the second premolar. Therefore, wolf teeth are commonly removed.
Horse colic
Colic in horses is defined as abdominal pain, but it is a clinical sign or a symptom rather than a diagnosis. The
term colic can encompass all forms of gastrointestinal conditions which cause pain as well as other causes of
abdominal pain not involving the gastrointestinal tract. The most common forms of colic are gastrointestinal in
nature and are most often related to colonic disturbance. There are a variety of different causes of colic, some
of which require surgical intervention and can prove fatal. Colic surgery is usually an expensive procedure as it
is major abdominal surgery. Among domesticated horses, colic is a major cause of premature death. The
incidence of colic in the general horse population has been estimated between 10 and 11 percent on an
annual basis. It is important that any person who owns or works with horses be able to recognize the symptoms
of colic and determine whether or not a veterinarian should be called.
Symptoms
Symptoms of horse colic include refusal to eat, niping at their own sides, kicking at their abdomen, stretching
or straining during defecation, violent rolling or shaking, excessive perspiration, lip curling, cool extremities,
fewer bowel movements or a high pulse rate.
Prevention
Colic can be prevented by restricted access to carbohydrates, clean feed and drinking water, preventing the
ingestion of dirt or sand by using an elevated feeding surface, a regular feeding schedule, regular deworming,
a regular diet that does not change substantial in content or proportion and prevention of heatstroke.
Sand impaction
This is most likely to occur in horses that graze sandy or heavily grazed pastures leaving only dirt to ingest.
The term sand also encompasses dirt. The ingested sand or dirt accumulates in the pelvic flexure, right dorsal
colon and the cecum of the large intestines. As the sand or dirt irritates the lining of the bowel it can cause
diarrhea. The weight and abrasion of the sand or dirt causes the bowel wall to become inflamed and can cause
a reduction in colonic motility and in severe cases even peritonitis. Historically medical treatment of the
problem is with laxatives such as liquid paraffin or oil and psyllium husk. More recently doctors are treating
cases with specific synbiotic (pro and prebiotic) and psyllium combinations. Some cases may need surgery.
Horses with sand or dirt impaction are predisposed to Salmonella infection. Horses should not be fed from the
ground in areas where sand, dirt and silt are prevalent although small amounts of sand or dirt will still be
ingested by grazing. Management to reduce sand intake and prophylactic treatments with sand removal
products are recommended by most veterinarians.
Pelvic flexure impaction
This is caused by an impaction of food material (Water, Grass, Hay, Grain) at a part of the large bowel known
as the pelvic flexure of the left colon where the intestine takes a 180 degree turn and narrows. Impaction
generally responds well to medical treatment, but more severe cases may not recover without surgery. If left
untreated, severe impaction colic can be fatal. The most common cause is when the horse is on box rest
and/or consumes large volumes of straw, or the horse has dental disease and is unable to masticate properly.
This condition could be diagnosed on rectal examination by a veterinarian.
Spasmodic colic
Spasmodic colic is the result of increased peristaltic contractions in the horse's gastrointestinal tract. It can be
the result of a mild gas buildup within the horse's digestive tract. The signs of colic are generally mild and
respond well to spasmolytic and analgesic medication. Anecdotally, spasmodic colic may be caused by too
much fresh grass.
Ileal impaction
The ileum is the last part of the small intestine that ends in the cecum. Ileal impaction can be caused by
obstruction of ingesta. Other causes can be obstruction by ascarids (Parascaris equorum) or tapeworm
(Anaplocephala Perfoliata) as mentioned below.
Colic in horses is defined as abdominal pain, but it is a clinical sign or a symptom rather than a diagnosis. The
term colic can encompass all forms of gastrointestinal conditions which cause pain as well as other causes of
abdominal pain not involving the gastrointestinal tract. The most common forms of colic are gastrointestinal in
nature and are most often related to colonic disturbance. There are a variety of different causes of colic, some
of which require surgical intervention and can prove fatal. Colic surgery is usually an expensive procedure as it
is major abdominal surgery. Among domesticated horses, colic is a major cause of premature death. The
incidence of colic in the general horse population has been estimated between 10 and 11 percent on an
annual basis. It is important that any person who owns or works with horses be able to recognize the symptoms
of colic and determine whether or not a veterinarian should be called.
Symptoms
Symptoms of horse colic include refusal to eat, niping at their own sides, kicking at their abdomen, stretching
or straining during defecation, violent rolling or shaking, excessive perspiration, lip curling, cool extremities,
fewer bowel movements or a high pulse rate.
Prevention
Colic can be prevented by restricted access to carbohydrates, clean feed and drinking water, preventing the
ingestion of dirt or sand by using an elevated feeding surface, a regular feeding schedule, regular deworming,
a regular diet that does not change substantial in content or proportion and prevention of heatstroke.
Sand impaction
This is most likely to occur in horses that graze sandy or heavily grazed pastures leaving only dirt to ingest.
The term sand also encompasses dirt. The ingested sand or dirt accumulates in the pelvic flexure, right dorsal
colon and the cecum of the large intestines. As the sand or dirt irritates the lining of the bowel it can cause
diarrhea. The weight and abrasion of the sand or dirt causes the bowel wall to become inflamed and can cause
a reduction in colonic motility and in severe cases even peritonitis. Historically medical treatment of the
problem is with laxatives such as liquid paraffin or oil and psyllium husk. More recently doctors are treating
cases with specific synbiotic (pro and prebiotic) and psyllium combinations. Some cases may need surgery.
Horses with sand or dirt impaction are predisposed to Salmonella infection. Horses should not be fed from the
ground in areas where sand, dirt and silt are prevalent although small amounts of sand or dirt will still be
ingested by grazing. Management to reduce sand intake and prophylactic treatments with sand removal
products are recommended by most veterinarians.
Pelvic flexure impaction
This is caused by an impaction of food material (Water, Grass, Hay, Grain) at a part of the large bowel known
as the pelvic flexure of the left colon where the intestine takes a 180 degree turn and narrows. Impaction
generally responds well to medical treatment, but more severe cases may not recover without surgery. If left
untreated, severe impaction colic can be fatal. The most common cause is when the horse is on box rest
and/or consumes large volumes of straw, or the horse has dental disease and is unable to masticate properly.
This condition could be diagnosed on rectal examination by a veterinarian.
Spasmodic colic
Spasmodic colic is the result of increased peristaltic contractions in the horse's gastrointestinal tract. It can be
the result of a mild gas buildup within the horse's digestive tract. The signs of colic are generally mild and
respond well to spasmolytic and analgesic medication. Anecdotally, spasmodic colic may be caused by too
much fresh grass.
Ileal impaction
The ileum is the last part of the small intestine that ends in the cecum. Ileal impaction can be caused by
obstruction of ingesta. Other causes can be obstruction by ascarids (Parascaris equorum) or tapeworm
(Anaplocephala Perfoliata) as mentioned below.
Worming Your Horse
Parasite management
All horses and ponies have a parasite burden, and therefore treatment is periodically needed throughout the
horse or pony's life. Some steps to reduce parasite infection include regularly removing droppings from the
horse's stall, shed or field; breaking up droppings in fields by harrowing or disking; minimizing crowding in
fields; periodically leaving a field empty for several weeks; or placing animals other than horses on the field for
a period of time. If botflies are active, fly spray may repel insects, but needs frequent reapplication to remain
effective. A small pumice stone or dull knife may be carefully used to scrape off any bot eggs that are stuck on
the horse. (Bot eggs are yellow and roughly the size of a grain of sand, they are clearly visible on dark hair,
harder to spot on white hair.)
However, worms cannot be completely eliminated. Therefore, most modern horse owners commonly give
anthelmintic drugs (wormers) to their horses to reduce these parasites.
Methods of Worming
There are 2 common methods of worming. Purge wormers that kill parasites with a single strong dose, are
given periodically, usually every 8–12 weeks, depending on local conditions and veterinary recommendations.
Continuous wormers, also known as "daily" wormers, are given in the horse's feed each day, in small doses,
and kill worms as they infect the horse. Neither of these methods is perfect; purge wormers are effective for
rapidly killing all parasites, but are gone from the horses' body in a few days, and then the horse may start to
be re-infected. Continuous wormers are a mild low dose and may be easier on the horse, but may not be
effective in quickly killing worms in a heavily-infected horse, and may contribute to drug resistance. Neither
type will kill all types of worms, so horses normally require a purge worming with a different drug on a rotating
basis, at least 2 or 3 times per year.
Many horse owners also rotate between the different chemical classes of wormers to combat the tendency of
parasites to develop resistance to a given class of drugs. (If a treatment doesn't kill at least 95% of a worm
species, that species is classed as 'resistant' to the drug.) Another way of combating drug resistance is to
worm less frequently, by having manure samples tested for the presence of parasite eggs and then worming
only when the count gets high enough, and with a wormer specific for the type of worm eggs found. However,
this method is not entirely reliable, as the parasite load varies somewhat with the seasons, and some
parasites (such as bots) may not show up in a fecal egg count at all.
Wormers come in several forms, including pastes, gels, powders, and granules or pellets. Powders and
granules normally come in single-dose packaging, and the wormer is normally mixed in with the horse's feed.
Pastes and gels normally come in a plastic syringe which is inserted in the side of the horse's mouth and used
to squirt the wormer onto the back of the horse's tongue.
Risks of worming
Modern anthelmintics are quite effective against worms. However, if a horse is heavily infested with parasites,
wormers must be given carefully. A horses' body may be overwhelmed by the toxins released by a heavy load
of dead worms after worming with a powerful drug. There have been documented cases of horses, particularly
if also undernourished, ill, or otherwise weakened, to become sick or even die. Thus, a veterinarian may
recommend worming with a mild class of drugs, such as Panacur, or a low-dose daily wormer for the first
month or so, and then follow with periodic purge wormer treatments.
Types of parasites found in equines
Ascarids, also known as roundworms
Pinworms, sometimes known as seatworms
Tapeworms
Strongyles - large and small, sometimes known as Redworm.
Bots - a fly larvae - bot eggs are laid on a horse's coat, and when accidentally ingested through the horse
licking its coat, the larvae hatch in the tongue, migrate down the esophagus and mature in the stomach.
Ringworm in horses is not actually a worm but a contagious fungal skin disease and is normally treated using
an anti-fungal wash.
There are several different brands of wormer, using different types of active chemical - which in turn kill
different types of parasites. It is sometimes necessary to use a specific wormer at a certain time of year,
depending on the life cycle of the parasites involved. Many horse owners rotate wormers during the year,
using different brands or formulations with different active chemicals, to combat drug-resistant parasites.
Parasite management
All horses and ponies have a parasite burden, and therefore treatment is periodically needed throughout the
horse or pony's life. Some steps to reduce parasite infection include regularly removing droppings from the
horse's stall, shed or field; breaking up droppings in fields by harrowing or disking; minimizing crowding in
fields; periodically leaving a field empty for several weeks; or placing animals other than horses on the field for
a period of time. If botflies are active, fly spray may repel insects, but needs frequent reapplication to remain
effective. A small pumice stone or dull knife may be carefully used to scrape off any bot eggs that are stuck on
the horse. (Bot eggs are yellow and roughly the size of a grain of sand, they are clearly visible on dark hair,
harder to spot on white hair.)
However, worms cannot be completely eliminated. Therefore, most modern horse owners commonly give
anthelmintic drugs (wormers) to their horses to reduce these parasites.
Methods of Worming
There are 2 common methods of worming. Purge wormers that kill parasites with a single strong dose, are
given periodically, usually every 8–12 weeks, depending on local conditions and veterinary recommendations.
Continuous wormers, also known as "daily" wormers, are given in the horse's feed each day, in small doses,
and kill worms as they infect the horse. Neither of these methods is perfect; purge wormers are effective for
rapidly killing all parasites, but are gone from the horses' body in a few days, and then the horse may start to
be re-infected. Continuous wormers are a mild low dose and may be easier on the horse, but may not be
effective in quickly killing worms in a heavily-infected horse, and may contribute to drug resistance. Neither
type will kill all types of worms, so horses normally require a purge worming with a different drug on a rotating
basis, at least 2 or 3 times per year.
Many horse owners also rotate between the different chemical classes of wormers to combat the tendency of
parasites to develop resistance to a given class of drugs. (If a treatment doesn't kill at least 95% of a worm
species, that species is classed as 'resistant' to the drug.) Another way of combating drug resistance is to
worm less frequently, by having manure samples tested for the presence of parasite eggs and then worming
only when the count gets high enough, and with a wormer specific for the type of worm eggs found. However,
this method is not entirely reliable, as the parasite load varies somewhat with the seasons, and some
parasites (such as bots) may not show up in a fecal egg count at all.
Wormers come in several forms, including pastes, gels, powders, and granules or pellets. Powders and
granules normally come in single-dose packaging, and the wormer is normally mixed in with the horse's feed.
Pastes and gels normally come in a plastic syringe which is inserted in the side of the horse's mouth and used
to squirt the wormer onto the back of the horse's tongue.
Risks of worming
Modern anthelmintics are quite effective against worms. However, if a horse is heavily infested with parasites,
wormers must be given carefully. A horses' body may be overwhelmed by the toxins released by a heavy load
of dead worms after worming with a powerful drug. There have been documented cases of horses, particularly
if also undernourished, ill, or otherwise weakened, to become sick or even die. Thus, a veterinarian may
recommend worming with a mild class of drugs, such as Panacur, or a low-dose daily wormer for the first
month or so, and then follow with periodic purge wormer treatments.
Types of parasites found in equines
Ascarids, also known as roundworms
Pinworms, sometimes known as seatworms
Tapeworms
Strongyles - large and small, sometimes known as Redworm.
Bots - a fly larvae - bot eggs are laid on a horse's coat, and when accidentally ingested through the horse
licking its coat, the larvae hatch in the tongue, migrate down the esophagus and mature in the stomach.
Ringworm in horses is not actually a worm but a contagious fungal skin disease and is normally treated using
an anti-fungal wash.
There are several different brands of wormer, using different types of active chemical - which in turn kill
different types of parasites. It is sometimes necessary to use a specific wormer at a certain time of year,
depending on the life cycle of the parasites involved. Many horse owners rotate wormers during the year,
using different brands or formulations with different active chemicals, to combat drug-resistant parasites.
Feeding
A horse or pony needs approximately 1.5% to 2.5% of its body weight in food per day. This may include
forages such as grass or hay, and concentrates such as grain or commercially prepared pelleted feeds. Like
people, some horses are "easy keepers" and prone to obesity, while others are "hard keepers" and need a
great deal of food just to maintain a slim build. The average riding horse weighs roughly 1000 pounds, but the
weight of a horse can be more closely estimated using a weight tape, which can be purchased from a feed
store or tack shop.
Best practice is to feed horses two or three times daily, unless they are on full time pasture. Fresh, clean water
should be provided free choice at all times, unless there is a specific reason to limit water intake for a short
period of time.
A horse that is not ridden daily or subjected to other stressors can maintain adequate nutrition on pasture or
hay alone, with adequate water (10-12 gallons per day minimum) and free access to a salt block or loose salt.
However, horses and ponies in regular work often need a ration of both forage and concentrates.
Horses that are fed improperly may develop colic or laminitis, particularly if fed spoiled feed, subjected to
excessive feed, or a too-abrupt change of feed. Young horses who are improperly fed may develop growth
disorders due to an imbalance of nutrients.
Feeding behavior
Horses can become anxious or stressed if there are long periods of time between meals. They also do best
when they are fed on a regular schedule; they are creatures of habit and easily upset by changes in routine.
When horses are in a herd, their behavior is hierarchical; the higher-ranked animals in the herd eat and drink
first. Low-status animals, who eat last, may not get enough food, and if there is little available feed,
higher-ranking horses may keep lower-ranking ones from eating at all. Therefore, unless a herd is on pasture
that meets the nutritional needs of all individuals, it is important to either feed horses separately, or spread
feed out in separate areas to be sure all animals get roughly equal amounts of food to eat. In some situations
where horses are kept together, they may still be placed into separate herds, depending on nutritional needs;
overweight horses are kept separate from thin horses so that rations may be adjusted accordingly.
Illnesses related to improper feeding
Colic, choke, and laminitis can be life-threatening when a horse is severely affected, and veterinary care is
necessary to properly treat these conditions. Other conditions, while not life-threatening, may have serious
implications for the long-term health and soundness of a horse.
Colic
Horse colic itself is not a disease, but rather a description of symptoms connected to abdominal pain. It can
occur due to any number of digestive upsets, from mild bloating due to excess intestinal gas to life-threatening
impactions. Colic is most often caused by a change in diet, either a planned change that takes place too
quickly, or an accidental change, such as a horse getting out of its barn or paddock and ingesting unfamiliar
plants. But colic has many other possible triggers including insufficient water, an irregular feeding schedule,
stress, and illness.[49] Because the horse cannot vomit and has a limited capacity to detoxify harmful
substances, anything upsetting to the horse must travel all the way through the digestive system to be
expelled.
Choke
Choke is not as common as colic, but is nonetheless commonly considered a veterinary emergency. The most
common cause of choke is horses not chewing their food thoroughly, usually because of eating their food too
quickly, especially if they do not have sufficient access to water, but also sometimes due to dental problems
that make chewing painful. It is exceedingly difficult for a horse to expel anything from the esophagus, and
immediate treatment is often required. Unlike choking in humans, choke in horses does not cut off respiration.
Laminitis
Horses are also susceptible to laminitis, a disease of the lamina of the hoof. Laminitis has many causes, but
the most common is related to a sugar and starch overload from a horse overeating certain types of food,
particularly too much pasture grass high in fructan in early spring and late fall, or by consuming excessive
quantities of grain.
Growth disorders
Young horses that are overfed or are fed a diet with an improper calcium:phosphorus ratio over time may
develop a number of growth and orthopedic disorders, including osteochondrosis (OCD), angular limb
deformities (ALD),and several conditions grouped under the popular term "contracted tendons." If not properly
treated, damage can be permanent. However, they can be treated if caught in time, given proper veterinary
care, and any improper feeding practices are corrected. Young horses being fed for rapid growth in order to
be shown or sold as yearlings are at particularly high risk. Adult horses with an improper diet may also develop
a range of metabolic problems.
"Tying up"
Equine Exertional Rhabdomyolysis, or "tying up," is a condition to which only some horses are susceptible.
But, for those that are, a day of rest on full grain ration followed by work the next may often lead to severe
muscular cramping, a set of symptoms that led to the archaic nickname for the condition, "Monday morning
sickness." The condition may also be related to elecrolyte imbalance. Proper diet management may help
minimize the risk of an attack.
A horse or pony needs approximately 1.5% to 2.5% of its body weight in food per day. This may include
forages such as grass or hay, and concentrates such as grain or commercially prepared pelleted feeds. Like
people, some horses are "easy keepers" and prone to obesity, while others are "hard keepers" and need a
great deal of food just to maintain a slim build. The average riding horse weighs roughly 1000 pounds, but the
weight of a horse can be more closely estimated using a weight tape, which can be purchased from a feed
store or tack shop.
Best practice is to feed horses two or three times daily, unless they are on full time pasture. Fresh, clean water
should be provided free choice at all times, unless there is a specific reason to limit water intake for a short
period of time.
A horse that is not ridden daily or subjected to other stressors can maintain adequate nutrition on pasture or
hay alone, with adequate water (10-12 gallons per day minimum) and free access to a salt block or loose salt.
However, horses and ponies in regular work often need a ration of both forage and concentrates.
Horses that are fed improperly may develop colic or laminitis, particularly if fed spoiled feed, subjected to
excessive feed, or a too-abrupt change of feed. Young horses who are improperly fed may develop growth
disorders due to an imbalance of nutrients.
Feeding behavior
Horses can become anxious or stressed if there are long periods of time between meals. They also do best
when they are fed on a regular schedule; they are creatures of habit and easily upset by changes in routine.
When horses are in a herd, their behavior is hierarchical; the higher-ranked animals in the herd eat and drink
first. Low-status animals, who eat last, may not get enough food, and if there is little available feed,
higher-ranking horses may keep lower-ranking ones from eating at all. Therefore, unless a herd is on pasture
that meets the nutritional needs of all individuals, it is important to either feed horses separately, or spread
feed out in separate areas to be sure all animals get roughly equal amounts of food to eat. In some situations
where horses are kept together, they may still be placed into separate herds, depending on nutritional needs;
overweight horses are kept separate from thin horses so that rations may be adjusted accordingly.
Illnesses related to improper feeding
Colic, choke, and laminitis can be life-threatening when a horse is severely affected, and veterinary care is
necessary to properly treat these conditions. Other conditions, while not life-threatening, may have serious
implications for the long-term health and soundness of a horse.
Colic
Horse colic itself is not a disease, but rather a description of symptoms connected to abdominal pain. It can
occur due to any number of digestive upsets, from mild bloating due to excess intestinal gas to life-threatening
impactions. Colic is most often caused by a change in diet, either a planned change that takes place too
quickly, or an accidental change, such as a horse getting out of its barn or paddock and ingesting unfamiliar
plants. But colic has many other possible triggers including insufficient water, an irregular feeding schedule,
stress, and illness.[49] Because the horse cannot vomit and has a limited capacity to detoxify harmful
substances, anything upsetting to the horse must travel all the way through the digestive system to be
expelled.
Choke
Choke is not as common as colic, but is nonetheless commonly considered a veterinary emergency. The most
common cause of choke is horses not chewing their food thoroughly, usually because of eating their food too
quickly, especially if they do not have sufficient access to water, but also sometimes due to dental problems
that make chewing painful. It is exceedingly difficult for a horse to expel anything from the esophagus, and
immediate treatment is often required. Unlike choking in humans, choke in horses does not cut off respiration.
Laminitis
Horses are also susceptible to laminitis, a disease of the lamina of the hoof. Laminitis has many causes, but
the most common is related to a sugar and starch overload from a horse overeating certain types of food,
particularly too much pasture grass high in fructan in early spring and late fall, or by consuming excessive
quantities of grain.
Growth disorders
Young horses that are overfed or are fed a diet with an improper calcium:phosphorus ratio over time may
develop a number of growth and orthopedic disorders, including osteochondrosis (OCD), angular limb
deformities (ALD),and several conditions grouped under the popular term "contracted tendons." If not properly
treated, damage can be permanent. However, they can be treated if caught in time, given proper veterinary
care, and any improper feeding practices are corrected. Young horses being fed for rapid growth in order to
be shown or sold as yearlings are at particularly high risk. Adult horses with an improper diet may also develop
a range of metabolic problems.
"Tying up"
Equine Exertional Rhabdomyolysis, or "tying up," is a condition to which only some horses are susceptible.
But, for those that are, a day of rest on full grain ration followed by work the next may often lead to severe
muscular cramping, a set of symptoms that led to the archaic nickname for the condition, "Monday morning
sickness." The condition may also be related to elecrolyte imbalance. Proper diet management may help
minimize the risk of an attack.
Access to water
Horses normally require free access to all the fresh, clean water they want, and to avoid dehydration, should not
be kept from water longer than four hours at any one time. However, water may need to be temporarily limited in
quantity when a horse is very hot after a heavy workout. As long as a hot horse continues to work, it can drink its
fill at periodic intervals, provided that common sense is used and that an overheated horse is not forced to drink
from extremely cold water sources. But when the workout is over, a horse needs to be cooled out and walked for
30—90 minutes before it can be allowed all the water it wants at one time. However, dehydration is also a
concern, so some water needs to be offered during the cooling off process. A hot horse will properly rehydrate
while cooling off if offered a few swallows of water every three to five minutes while being walked. Sometimes the
thirst mechanism does not immediately kick in following a heavy workout, which is another reason to offer
periodic refills of water throughout the cooling down period.
Even a slightly dehydrated horse is at higher risk of developing impaction colic. Additionally, dehydration can
lead to weight loss because the horse cannot produce adequate amounts of saliva, thus decreasing the amount
of feed and dry forage consumed. Thus, it is especially important for horse owners to encourage their horses to
drink when there is a risk of dehydration; when horses are losing a great deal of water in hot weather due to
strenuous work, or in cold weather due to horses' natural tendency to drink less when in a cold environment. To
encourage drinking, owners may add electrolytes to the feed, additives to make the water especially palatable
(such as apple juice), or, when it is cold, to warm the water so that it is not at a near-freezing temperature.
Horses normally require free access to all the fresh, clean water they want, and to avoid dehydration, should not
be kept from water longer than four hours at any one time. However, water may need to be temporarily limited in
quantity when a horse is very hot after a heavy workout. As long as a hot horse continues to work, it can drink its
fill at periodic intervals, provided that common sense is used and that an overheated horse is not forced to drink
from extremely cold water sources. But when the workout is over, a horse needs to be cooled out and walked for
30—90 minutes before it can be allowed all the water it wants at one time. However, dehydration is also a
concern, so some water needs to be offered during the cooling off process. A hot horse will properly rehydrate
while cooling off if offered a few swallows of water every three to five minutes while being walked. Sometimes the
thirst mechanism does not immediately kick in following a heavy workout, which is another reason to offer
periodic refills of water throughout the cooling down period.
Even a slightly dehydrated horse is at higher risk of developing impaction colic. Additionally, dehydration can
lead to weight loss because the horse cannot produce adequate amounts of saliva, thus decreasing the amount
of feed and dry forage consumed. Thus, it is especially important for horse owners to encourage their horses to
drink when there is a risk of dehydration; when horses are losing a great deal of water in hot weather due to
strenuous work, or in cold weather due to horses' natural tendency to drink less when in a cold environment. To
encourage drinking, owners may add electrolytes to the feed, additives to make the water especially palatable
(such as apple juice), or, when it is cold, to warm the water so that it is not at a near-freezing temperature.
Treats
Many people like to feed horses special treats such as carrots, sugar cubes, peppermint candies or specially
manufactured horse "cookies." Horses do not need treats, and due to the risk of colic or choke, many horse
owners do not allow their horses to be given treats. There are also behavioral issues that some horses may
develop if given too many treats, particularly a tendency to bite if hand-fed, and for this reason many horse
trainers and riding instructors discourage the practice.
However, if treats are allowed, carrots and compressed hay pellets are common, nutritious, and generally not
harmful. Apples are also acceptable, though it is best if they are first cut into slices. Horse "cookies" are often
specially manufactured out of ordinary grains and some added molasses. They generally will not cause
nutritional problems when fed in small quantities. However, many types of human foods are potentially
dangerous to a horse and should not be fed. This includes bread products, meat products, candy, and
carbonated or alcoholic beverages.
It was once a common practice to give horses a weekly bran mash of wheat bran mixed with warm water and
other ingredients. It is still done regularly in some places. While a warm, soft meal is a treat many horses enjoy,
and was once considered helpful for its laxative effect, it is not nutritionally necessary. An old horse with poor
teeth may benefit from food softened in water, a mash may help provide extra hydration, and a warm meal may
be comforting in cold weather, but horses have far more fiber in their regular diet than do humans, and so any
assistance from bran is unnecessary. There is also a risk that too much wheat bran may provide excessive
phosphorus, unbalancing the diet, and a feed of unusual contents fed only once a week could trigger a bout of
colic.
Many people like to feed horses special treats such as carrots, sugar cubes, peppermint candies or specially
manufactured horse "cookies." Horses do not need treats, and due to the risk of colic or choke, many horse
owners do not allow their horses to be given treats. There are also behavioral issues that some horses may
develop if given too many treats, particularly a tendency to bite if hand-fed, and for this reason many horse
trainers and riding instructors discourage the practice.
However, if treats are allowed, carrots and compressed hay pellets are common, nutritious, and generally not
harmful. Apples are also acceptable, though it is best if they are first cut into slices. Horse "cookies" are often
specially manufactured out of ordinary grains and some added molasses. They generally will not cause
nutritional problems when fed in small quantities. However, many types of human foods are potentially
dangerous to a horse and should not be fed. This includes bread products, meat products, candy, and
carbonated or alcoholic beverages.
It was once a common practice to give horses a weekly bran mash of wheat bran mixed with warm water and
other ingredients. It is still done regularly in some places. While a warm, soft meal is a treat many horses enjoy,
and was once considered helpful for its laxative effect, it is not nutritionally necessary. An old horse with poor
teeth may benefit from food softened in water, a mash may help provide extra hydration, and a warm meal may
be comforting in cold weather, but horses have far more fiber in their regular diet than do humans, and so any
assistance from bran is unnecessary. There is also a risk that too much wheat bran may provide excessive
phosphorus, unbalancing the diet, and a feed of unusual contents fed only once a week could trigger a bout of
colic.
Grooming
Horses groomed regularly have healthier and more attractive coats. Many horse management handbooks
recommend grooming a horse daily, though for the average modern horse owner, this is not always possible.
However, a horse should always be groomed before being ridden to avoid chafing and rubbing of dirt and other
material, which can cause sores on the animal and also grind dirt into horse tack. Grooming also allows the
horse handler to check for injuries and is a good way to gain the trust of the animal.
Proper basic grooming of a horse is a multi-step process involving several simple tools:
1. Curry: Usually a round tool with short teeth made of plastic or stiff rubber, used to loosen dirt, hair, and other
detritus, plus stimulate the skin to produce natural oils.
2. Dandy brush: A stiff-bristled, "dandy" brush is used to remove the dirt, hair and other material stirred up by
the curry. The best quality dandy brushes are made of stiff natural bristles such as rice stems,
plastic-bristled dandy brushes are more common.
3. Body brush: A soft-bristled "body" brush removes finer particles and dust. Some natural body brushes are
made of boar bristles, like human hairbrushes, others are made of soft synthetic fibers.
4. Grooming rag or towel: A terrycloth towel or other type of cloth. Sometimes called a "stable rubber."
5. Mane brush or comb: Horses with short, pulled manes have their manes combed with a wide-toothed plastic
or metal comb. Horse tails and long manes are brushed with either a dandy brush or a suitable human brush.
6. Hoof pick: All four feet of the horse need to be cleaned out. See "Hoof care and shoeing, above..
7. In special weather conditions, a metal shedding blade with short, dull teeth is used to remove loose winter
hair. Metal grooming tools used on sheep and show cattle may also be too harsh to use on a horse.
8. In the summer, fly spray is often applied to the horse after grooming.
9. Sweat or Water Scraper: A metal or plastic tool to remove excess liquid from a horse's coat.
Sometimes, though not always, horses are clipped with scissors or, preferably, electric clippers. The most
common areas are a short "bridle path" just behind the ears, where a few inches of mane is removed to help
the bridle lay more neatly; and the fetlocks, where extra hair can collect undesired amounts of mud and dirt.
For horse show and exhibition purposes, additional clipping may be done.
Beyond the basic equipment, there are literally thousands of grooming tools on the market, from multiple
designs on the basic brushes, available in many colors, to specialized tools for braiding manes, polishing
hooves and clipping loose hair. There are also grooming products for horses ranging from moisturizing hair
dressings to glitter gel and hoof polish.
Horses can be bathed by being wet down with a garden hose, but they do not require bathing and many horses
live their entire lives without a bath. Either horse or human shampoo may be safely used on a horse, if
thoroughly rinsed out, and cream rinses or hair conditioners, similar to those used by humans, are often used
on show horses. Too-frequent shampooing can strip the hair coat of natural oils and cause it to dry out. A
well-groomed, clean horse can be kept clean by wearing a horse blanket or horse sheet.
A horse show class that considers quality of grooming for as much as 40% of the total score is called
showmanship.
Horses groomed regularly have healthier and more attractive coats. Many horse management handbooks
recommend grooming a horse daily, though for the average modern horse owner, this is not always possible.
However, a horse should always be groomed before being ridden to avoid chafing and rubbing of dirt and other
material, which can cause sores on the animal and also grind dirt into horse tack. Grooming also allows the
horse handler to check for injuries and is a good way to gain the trust of the animal.
Proper basic grooming of a horse is a multi-step process involving several simple tools:
1. Curry: Usually a round tool with short teeth made of plastic or stiff rubber, used to loosen dirt, hair, and other
detritus, plus stimulate the skin to produce natural oils.
2. Dandy brush: A stiff-bristled, "dandy" brush is used to remove the dirt, hair and other material stirred up by
the curry. The best quality dandy brushes are made of stiff natural bristles such as rice stems,
plastic-bristled dandy brushes are more common.
3. Body brush: A soft-bristled "body" brush removes finer particles and dust. Some natural body brushes are
made of boar bristles, like human hairbrushes, others are made of soft synthetic fibers.
4. Grooming rag or towel: A terrycloth towel or other type of cloth. Sometimes called a "stable rubber."
5. Mane brush or comb: Horses with short, pulled manes have their manes combed with a wide-toothed plastic
or metal comb. Horse tails and long manes are brushed with either a dandy brush or a suitable human brush.
6. Hoof pick: All four feet of the horse need to be cleaned out. See "Hoof care and shoeing, above..
7. In special weather conditions, a metal shedding blade with short, dull teeth is used to remove loose winter
hair. Metal grooming tools used on sheep and show cattle may also be too harsh to use on a horse.
8. In the summer, fly spray is often applied to the horse after grooming.
9. Sweat or Water Scraper: A metal or plastic tool to remove excess liquid from a horse's coat.
Sometimes, though not always, horses are clipped with scissors or, preferably, electric clippers. The most
common areas are a short "bridle path" just behind the ears, where a few inches of mane is removed to help
the bridle lay more neatly; and the fetlocks, where extra hair can collect undesired amounts of mud and dirt.
For horse show and exhibition purposes, additional clipping may be done.
Beyond the basic equipment, there are literally thousands of grooming tools on the market, from multiple
designs on the basic brushes, available in many colors, to specialized tools for braiding manes, polishing
hooves and clipping loose hair. There are also grooming products for horses ranging from moisturizing hair
dressings to glitter gel and hoof polish.
Horses can be bathed by being wet down with a garden hose, but they do not require bathing and many horses
live their entire lives without a bath. Either horse or human shampoo may be safely used on a horse, if
thoroughly rinsed out, and cream rinses or hair conditioners, similar to those used by humans, are often used
on show horses. Too-frequent shampooing can strip the hair coat of natural oils and cause it to dry out. A
well-groomed, clean horse can be kept clean by wearing a horse blanket or horse sheet.
A horse show class that considers quality of grooming for as much as 40% of the total score is called
showmanship.
Vaccinations and travel requirements
Horses and ponies need annual vaccinations to protect against any number of sicknesses, though the precise
vaccines required varies depending on the part of the world where the horse lives and the uses to which the
animal is put. In most nations, equine influenza and tetanus shots are commonly given, and in many places,
various forms of Equine Encephalitis are a concern, including West Nile Virus. Many additional vaccines may
be needed, depending on local conditions.
As a general rule, a horse or pony that has never had a particular vaccination will be given an initial
vaccination and then a booster a few weeks later, then normally once a year after that. Animals kept in a public
boarding facility, those shipped for breeding and those frequently on the show circuit often require more
vaccinations than horses that are not exposed to outside animals and who do not travel.
Some type of veterinary certificate or proof of vaccination is often required for horses to travel or compete,
especially when crossing state, provincial, or international boundaries.
In the USA, a certificate stating that the horse has a negative "Coggins" test must be in the vehicle carrying the
horse when crossing state lines. This certificate, authorized by a veterinarian, certifies that the horse has been
tested with a recent period of time and does not have an incurable disease called equine infectious anemia
(EIA).
Horses and ponies need annual vaccinations to protect against any number of sicknesses, though the precise
vaccines required varies depending on the part of the world where the horse lives and the uses to which the
animal is put. In most nations, equine influenza and tetanus shots are commonly given, and in many places,
various forms of Equine Encephalitis are a concern, including West Nile Virus. Many additional vaccines may
be needed, depending on local conditions.
As a general rule, a horse or pony that has never had a particular vaccination will be given an initial
vaccination and then a booster a few weeks later, then normally once a year after that. Animals kept in a public
boarding facility, those shipped for breeding and those frequently on the show circuit often require more
vaccinations than horses that are not exposed to outside animals and who do not travel.
Some type of veterinary certificate or proof of vaccination is often required for horses to travel or compete,
especially when crossing state, provincial, or international boundaries.
In the USA, a certificate stating that the horse has a negative "Coggins" test must be in the vehicle carrying the
horse when crossing state lines. This certificate, authorized by a veterinarian, certifies that the horse has been
tested with a recent period of time and does not have an incurable disease called equine infectious anemia
(EIA).
Veterinary care
There are many disorders that affect horses, including colic, laminitis, and internal parasites. Horses also can
develop various infectious diseases that can be prevented by routine vaccination. It is sensible to register a
horse or pony with a local equine veterinarian, in case of emergency. The veterinary practice will keep a record
of the owner's details and where the horse or pony is kept, and any medical details. It is considered best
practice for a horse to have an annual checkup, usually in the spring. Some practitioners recommend biannual
checkups, in the spring and fall.
There are many disorders that affect horses, including colic, laminitis, and internal parasites. Horses also can
develop various infectious diseases that can be prevented by routine vaccination. It is sensible to register a
horse or pony with a local equine veterinarian, in case of emergency. The veterinary practice will keep a record
of the owner's details and where the horse or pony is kept, and any medical details. It is considered best
practice for a horse to have an annual checkup, usually in the spring. Some practitioners recommend biannual
checkups, in the spring and fall.
First-aid kit
A well-stocked equine (and human) first-aid kit should be kept in a place where it is easily accessed. Any used
or out-of-date items should be replaced as soon as possible. However, other than for minor injuries, a
veterinarian should be consulted before treating a sick or injured animal.
The basic items any equine first-aid kit should include are:
Tools & Diagnostic Equipment
Rectal thermometer
Petroleum jelly (to use as lubrication for thermometer)
Stethoscope (for listening to heartbeat, respiration and, in the case of suspected colic, gut sounds) Pulse and
respiration can be determined without a stethoscope. Gut sounds can be heard by putting one's ear to the
horse's side, but doing so increases the risk of being kicked by the horse.
Sharp, clean scissors, reserved for first aid kit only
Wire cutters (for freeing a tangled horse) or equivalent such as a fencing tool or lineman's pliers, though these
objects are often kept in a well-organized barn, an extra set in a first-aid kit is helpful for major emergencies
Flashlight and extra batteries. (for nighttime emergencies or to add a light source in a shadowed area)
Cleaning supplies
Clean bucket, reserved for first-aid kit only, for washing out wounds
Clean sponge, reserved for first-aid kit only
Gauze (for cleaning wounds)
Cotton balls or sheet cotton for absorbing liquids, particularly good for dipping into liquid products and then
squeezing or dabbing the liquid onto a wound (Cotton used to clean a wound may leave fibers in the injury,
gauze is a better product if the wound must be touched)
hypodermic syringe (without needle), for cleaning wounds. (Using the syringe to wash out a wound is preferable
to cleaning it with cotton or gauze.) An old syringe, cleaned, works fine for this.
Sterile Saline solution, which is used to clean wounds. Contact lens solution may be used for this purpose.
Latex/medical gloves, unused
Clean towels and rags
Disposable rags or paper towels
Bandages and other forms of protection
Absorbent padding, such as roll cotton or a set of cotton leg wraps (keep a clean set sealed in a plastic bag)
Gauze to be used as wound dressing underneath bandages
Sterile wound dressing, such as telfa pads; large sizes of those intended for humans work well.
Leg Bandages - stable bandages or rolls of self-adhering vet wrap
Adhesive tape for keeping bandages in place
Poultice boot, for hoof injuries. (A hoof boot can be used for this purpose, though a medical boot is usually
easier to put on and take off)
Over the counter medications
Medical grade antibacterial soap
Wound ointment for minor scrapes.
Antiseptic/Disinfectant, such as Betadine, diluted iodine solution, or hydrogen peroxide
Epsom salts for drawing out infection & treating pain
Poultice dressing. Disposable diapers (nappies) or sanitary napkins may also be cut and used as a poultice as
they draw moisture out of wounds. Kaolin clay may also be used as a poultice.
Veterinary medications - in most locations, these are prescription medications and can only be obtained through
a licensed Veterinarian. And should generally not be administered without prior consultation with a veterinarian,
either over the telephone or by specific advance instruction.
Phenylbutazone ("Bute") paste for pain relief
Flunixin Meglumine ("Banamine", "Finadyne") granules or paste for colic treatment
Acepromazine ("Ace") or similar tranquilizer pill, paste, or pre-filled injector
Epinephrine (adrenaline) auto-injectors for emergency treatment of a horse that goes into anaphylactic shock
when stung by a bee, wasp or other insect
Other
Veterinarian's and farrier's telephone and emergency numbers.
A paper and pencil, for recording symptoms, pulse, respiration and veterinary instructions.
A Veterinary Emergency Handbook, giving basic instructions, in the event that a veterinarian cannot be reached
immediately.
Suitable box/container for all of the above, to keep materials and equipment clean and tidy.
A well-stocked equine (and human) first-aid kit should be kept in a place where it is easily accessed. Any used
or out-of-date items should be replaced as soon as possible. However, other than for minor injuries, a
veterinarian should be consulted before treating a sick or injured animal.
The basic items any equine first-aid kit should include are:
Tools & Diagnostic Equipment
Rectal thermometer
Petroleum jelly (to use as lubrication for thermometer)
Stethoscope (for listening to heartbeat, respiration and, in the case of suspected colic, gut sounds) Pulse and
respiration can be determined without a stethoscope. Gut sounds can be heard by putting one's ear to the
horse's side, but doing so increases the risk of being kicked by the horse.
Sharp, clean scissors, reserved for first aid kit only
Wire cutters (for freeing a tangled horse) or equivalent such as a fencing tool or lineman's pliers, though these
objects are often kept in a well-organized barn, an extra set in a first-aid kit is helpful for major emergencies
Flashlight and extra batteries. (for nighttime emergencies or to add a light source in a shadowed area)
Cleaning supplies
Clean bucket, reserved for first-aid kit only, for washing out wounds
Clean sponge, reserved for first-aid kit only
Gauze (for cleaning wounds)
Cotton balls or sheet cotton for absorbing liquids, particularly good for dipping into liquid products and then
squeezing or dabbing the liquid onto a wound (Cotton used to clean a wound may leave fibers in the injury,
gauze is a better product if the wound must be touched)
hypodermic syringe (without needle), for cleaning wounds. (Using the syringe to wash out a wound is preferable
to cleaning it with cotton or gauze.) An old syringe, cleaned, works fine for this.
Sterile Saline solution, which is used to clean wounds. Contact lens solution may be used for this purpose.
Latex/medical gloves, unused
Clean towels and rags
Disposable rags or paper towels
Bandages and other forms of protection
Absorbent padding, such as roll cotton or a set of cotton leg wraps (keep a clean set sealed in a plastic bag)
Gauze to be used as wound dressing underneath bandages
Sterile wound dressing, such as telfa pads; large sizes of those intended for humans work well.
Leg Bandages - stable bandages or rolls of self-adhering vet wrap
Adhesive tape for keeping bandages in place
Poultice boot, for hoof injuries. (A hoof boot can be used for this purpose, though a medical boot is usually
easier to put on and take off)
Over the counter medications
Medical grade antibacterial soap
Wound ointment for minor scrapes.
Antiseptic/Disinfectant, such as Betadine, diluted iodine solution, or hydrogen peroxide
Epsom salts for drawing out infection & treating pain
Poultice dressing. Disposable diapers (nappies) or sanitary napkins may also be cut and used as a poultice as
they draw moisture out of wounds. Kaolin clay may also be used as a poultice.
Veterinary medications - in most locations, these are prescription medications and can only be obtained through
a licensed Veterinarian. And should generally not be administered without prior consultation with a veterinarian,
either over the telephone or by specific advance instruction.
Phenylbutazone ("Bute") paste for pain relief
Flunixin Meglumine ("Banamine", "Finadyne") granules or paste for colic treatment
Acepromazine ("Ace") or similar tranquilizer pill, paste, or pre-filled injector
Epinephrine (adrenaline) auto-injectors for emergency treatment of a horse that goes into anaphylactic shock
when stung by a bee, wasp or other insect
Other
Veterinarian's and farrier's telephone and emergency numbers.
A paper and pencil, for recording symptoms, pulse, respiration and veterinary instructions.
A Veterinary Emergency Handbook, giving basic instructions, in the event that a veterinarian cannot be reached
immediately.
Suitable box/container for all of the above, to keep materials and equipment clean and tidy.
 | |  | |  | |  | |  | |  |
Destiny Ranch.net is a website where anyone can come to find information on all sorts of hot topics, such as hoof care for your
horse, worming your horse, horse treats and many many more topics. Weather or not you live in the area, it is still a place you
can come to find information about a horse.
Destiny Ranch is also a private riding club that most anyone may join, however we are not looking for non riders or non
participating members. This is a riding club for people who are serious about getting out and enjoying the great outdoors. If
this sounds like you and you live near Apache Junction Arizona you can fill out an application and become a new member of
the greatest small riding family in the South West.
horse, worming your horse, horse treats and many many more topics. Weather or not you live in the area, it is still a place you
can come to find information about a horse.
Destiny Ranch is also a private riding club that most anyone may join, however we are not looking for non riders or non
participating members. This is a riding club for people who are serious about getting out and enjoying the great outdoors. If
this sounds like you and you live near Apache Junction Arizona you can fill out an application and become a new member of
the greatest small riding family in the South West.
| Natural Hoof Care "Hoof Trimming" the natural way. If you would like to get your horses hooves back to the way nature intended them to be, CLICK HERE to find out how. Go Shoeless |
